Devon knows...

I've just come back from five days hols in Devon and have various observations to make about the food I had there:

1. One day in Devon = one day's penance when I get back for me I think, because my diet of cheese, cheese and onion pasties, fudge, cakes, chips and home-cooking there does now need to be counterbalanced.

2. Don't expect a warm welcome in mid-Devon. I really like the area but had my most frustrating food experience of the year on Sunday when it took abut two hours to find something to eat at lunch-time. The first stop was the Exeter Inn just outside Bampton, which is a very pretty place, and we were all in good spirits as we looked at the menus whilst having a drink outside. The problem was that when we tried to order we were told we could only order dishes off the dinner menu, even though they had a lunch menu, and when asked why this was the case were told "it's just not worth it", with regard to serving the lunch menu on a Sunday. The pub was half-empty at this point and their attitude smacked of real laziness and dislike of customers, so off we went to Bampton itself where we found: a locals pub where the "fuck off" signals were pretty loud and clear, as was the smell of overcooked boiled potatoes, a Co-op with three sets of sandwiches, a bakery with empty tables that claimed we needed a booking (I can see the article now: New Hot Tables of the Globe, including that crap bakery in Bampton), and another pub that only did carveries on Sundays. The welcome was less than stunning in all these places, so on we went to another pub which, at 2.30, wouldn't offer us food as they finished at 2.0, and, finally, to Pulham's Mill near Wimblehall Reservoir, where we had some very nice ploughmans in their pretty garden.

3. Otterton is still a fine place. I bought some of the flour from the mill to make some nice Devon bread back in London and then we walked to Budleigh and I saw a kingfisher for the first time. That rocked!

4. The Nobody Inn is also still good news. I had couscous with roasted vegetables and goats cheese, but the real highlights were a bar snack of dried, hot broad beans, and some luscious mocha ice cream.

5. I really like the beach cafe at Budleigh a lot. I'm writing this post in a state of some tiredness and am vaguely aware of struggling to use words of more than one syllable, but the cafe really is good. I had ciabatta with something that was advertised as houmous, but wasn't but it didn't matter as it was a yummy mix of chickpeas, yoghurt and herbs.

6. The Sidmouth folk festival is fun, though I can't claim to be as into all things Morris as is Riccardo. Along with hundreds of others we queued for chips from the place on the main street and they were pretty good, though serving scores of customers isn't that much excuse for garnishing a veggie burger with, er, nothing - not even a lettuce leaf or a dollop of mayo. That'll teach me to not each fish.

7. Delia's guacamole recipe is really good. Suzy made this one night and I was really impressed how zingy and fresh her version is. It's made without olive oil and is a great alternative to richer versions.

8. Manstree Vineyard is still a super place to pick fruit.

9. Shaul's do a very tasty cheese and onion pasty and Topsham is still one of my fave places in the world: wine, walks, cheese, pasties, the best views and a great outdoor pool. Si, si.