Scotland comes in for a lot of stick on the food front, and I've doled out my fair share at times, but it's important to realise that there are plenty of things to celebrate. For all the rubbishness of the food you're likely to be served in pubs in the Highlands, there are all the great Scottish ingredients (salmon, seafood in general, beef, haggis, veggie haggis! rasberries, strawberries, whisky etc) and there are the great popular foods like super chips with sauce, deep fried haggis, and a super tradition of cakes and bakeries. Unlike English towns, Scotland is still full of many, many local bakeries and this was one of the things I was most looking forward to when I found out I was going to Dundee. My plan was to identify a suitable looking bakery and then head there for breakfast, skipping whatever was on offer at my B+B. Espying Fisher and Donaldson on the day of my arrival, I was pleased that there was a traditional-looking bakery on the walk from my B+B to the university. Not just a bakery, though, but a 'Chocolaterie, Confiserie, Boulangerie, Patisserie' according to their bags, which gives you some idea of how seriously they take these things. I guess those terms conjure up images of a poncey, overpriced deli-type joint, so I should emphasise that this was just a decent neighbourhood bakery with a long tradition of having high aspirations to be on the same kind of level as bakeries in countries like France.
The old-time spirit of the place is reflected on the text on their bags, which I feel like quoting in full because I like it so much:
The premier bakers of the East of Scotland bring for your delight and appreciation the largest selection of Scottish and Continental confections.
Fresh cream gateaux, made from locally produced cream. savoury pies and bridies and assorted meat products. Traditional lines like oatmeal skirlies, mroning rolls, both crisp and soft, and for those with more exotic palettes, croissants, baguettes and crispy French rolls.
Tea fancies in profusion, biscuits and oatcakes like granny made. Border tarts made from butter and eggs and best Greek currants. All to delight your palate.
Try some of our own making of handmade chocolates of superfine quality and flavour. Some made with fresh cream and zestful liqeurs. Creams and fondants, truffles and ganaches, you've never tasted sweetmeats quite like these. Ideal for gifting all the year round..
Our celebrated cakes and puddings are all our own and are guaranteed to please.
Buy from the traditional bakers and confectioners where you will appreciate the best Scottish baking.
Our daily bread is baked today.
You couldn't make this stuff up, could you? I should add that I've corrected some of the grammar, though not all of it! I like the fact that the Continental connection looms large, with the sense of the Auld Alliance with France, missing England out all together, and I should say that the variety of offerings is, if anything, undersold in this blurb. I can't ever recall being in a bakers, home and abroad, where so many things on offer were totally new to me. Have you ever heard of Paving Stones, Dundee Biscuits, Small Highlanders, Abernethy Biscuits, Rolled Oat Bannocks or Perkins Biscuits? There was Dundee cake too, but I went for an Aberdeen Buttery (the Scottish croissant, which is much, much more, er, buttery than a croissant) and some Millionaire Shortbread. The former was excellent, as is invariably the case - and rather crunchier than Aberdonian varieties I've had - and the shortbread only so-so (the toffee layer was really sticky, rather than being set, though perhaps that is more authentic), but the best thing was the whole experience and seeing a deep-seated, long-lasting aspect of Scottish food culture thriving.
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